Monday, March 1, 2010
I can finally sleep, Fasnacht is over.
I can finally sleep, Fasnacht is over. For the past three days Basel has been engulfed in Fasnacht 2010. (see my photos of Fasnacht on Flickr) Fasnacht is an annual event that has between 15,000 and 20,000 participants and up to 500,000 spectators. This truly Swiss carnival starts on the Monday after Ash Wednesday at precisely 4:00 am. At that moment, all of the street lights in the old town are turned off and the "Three Most Beautiful days" begin. Fasnacht is the Protestant's way of poking fun at the Catholics, by holding a carnival during Lent.
On Monday and Wednesday afternoon, Cliques (groups of participants) parade through the old city. Months before Fasnacht, the Cliques determine their themes, and design costumes, masks, and lanterns to represent the themes. As they march they hand out explanatory leaflets written in the Basel dialect.
During the parade I work my way thought the crowd photographing the marching bands, floats and spectators. Spectators read the handouts that describe the Clique's Sujet (theme). Masked characters known as Waggis toss confetti, covering spectators, and from time to time me and my camera. It's all in fun. The Waggis also hand out treats ranging from oranges and flowers to small bottles of schnapps.
Monday evening the large lanterns pulled by the Cliques are parked on the Munsterplatz (the square in front of the cathedral). This is a chance for me, the spectators and Clique's members to have a close look at the messages on the lanterns and the fabulous workmanship.
The children's parade is on Tuesday afternoon. On Monday and Tuesday evening the Kellers (cellars where the Cliques meet) are opened as bars for Schnitzelbängg, which is singing and acting out humorous sayings and jingles about current events and happenings from the past year. I don't understand the Basler dialect but watching the way the crowd respond to the comedians it is clear that the rhythmic lyrics lead up to a punch line that really hits the spot.
Gässle is the wandering through the narrow alleyways of the old city by masked individuals and groups at all hours of the day and night. As they play fifes and drums, spectators march behind them. Fasnacht continues until exactly 4 am Thursday morning. When the clock strikes four this time the city falls silent. I can go back to sleep.
For information on Fasnacht 2011 see www.fasnachts-comite.ch
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